Why Orchids Struggle Indoors (and How to Help Them Thrive)
Why Is My Orchid Struggling? (and How to Help It Thrive)
Orchids have a reputation for being the divas of the houseplant world. Elegant, eye-catching, and sometimes a little demanding. But the truth is, they are not difficult plants, just misunderstood.
Most of the orchids sold in the UK are Phalaenopsis, so this guide will focus on them. However, the tips shared here can be carried across to many other varieties too. In their native forests of Southeast Asia, Phalaenopsis grow clinging to trees under shifting light, with roots exposed to fresh air and frequent rain showers.
Bring them into a centrally heated home with dry air, low winter light, and water trapped in decorative pots, and it is no wonder they sometimes struggle.
The good news is that orchids are far more resilient than they appear. With a few simple adjustments to light, watering, and humidity, they can thrive and bloom year after year. This guide answers the most common orchid care questions, from “Is my orchid dying?” to “How do I get my orchid to bloom again?”, and shows how thoughtful design can make their care easier.
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“The truth is, orchids aren’t actually all that difficult plants to care for”
Common Questions About Orchid Care
Why is my orchid struggling?
Orchids often struggle when home conditions do not match their natural habitat. The main causes are low light, dry air from central heating, overwatering, or roots packed too tightly in old compost. For a summary of the essentials, see our Quick Guide to Orchid Care.
Is my orchid dying?
Why are my orchid’s leaves yellowing or turning brown?
Yellowing leaves can have several causes. Too much direct sunlight can scorch them, while excess water can also cause yellow or brown patches. It is also natural for the oldest lower leaves to yellow and drop, so do not worry if it is just one or two at the base.
Why are my orchid’s roots grey, brown, or mushy?
Orchid roots are a helpful guide to their health. Grey or silvery roots mean the plant is thirsty. Plump green roots show it is hydrated. Brown or mushy roots are a sign of rot from overwatering or poor drainage. This is where repotting and clear pots are so useful, and where Orla makes care much easier by letting you see the root system clearly.
Why are my orchid’s flowers dropping, or buds not opening?
Orchids can drop flowers naturally after blooming, but unopened buds that shrivel (known as bud blast) usually mean stress. Causes include sudden temperature changes, low humidity, or draughts. Keep orchids away from radiators and draughty windows, and try to maintain steady humidity.
How often should I water my orchid?
Most orchids need watering every 7 to 10 days, but the best guide is their roots. Grey or silvery roots mean it is time to water, green roots mean they are hydrated. The dunking method works best: submerge the roots in water for a few minutes, then allow them to drain. With Orla, this becomes even more intuitive because you can see the roots clearly.
Do orchids need special soil?
Unlike most houseplants, orchids do not grow in soil. They need a loose, airy medium such as orchid bark that allows roots to breathe. Repot every one to two years with fresh bark to keep them healthy. You can read more in our Quick Guide to Orchid Care.
What light do orchids need?
Orchids thrive in bright, filtered light. In the UK, a west-facing room or southern wall is ideal, set back from the window or behind a sheer curtain. Avoid placing orchids directly on a sunny summer windowsill, as leaves can scorch. If light levels are poor, you may also notice flowers dropping or buds not opening.
How do I increase humidity for my orchid?
Orchids prefer humid air, ideally above 50 to 60 percent. In a dry home, humidity often drops much lower. Set the pot on a tray of pebbles with water, group plants together, or place orchids in a bright bathroom or kitchen. Orla also helps by creating a natural pocket of humidity around the roots.
How do I get my orchid to bloom again?
After flowering, Phalaenopsis orchids need a rest period. You can encourage a new spike by trimming the old one just above a node and keeping the plant in bright light. Reblooming takes patience, but it is natural for orchids to pause before producing flowers again. If you are unsure whether your orchid is resting or struggling, check the roots and leaves for signs of health first.
Helpful tip: After flowering, trimming the spike above a healthy node can encourage a second flush of blooms.
Quick Guide: Indoor Orchid Care
Caring for orchids does not need to be complicated. Here is a quick guide to the five essentials that will help them stay healthy and bloom again indoors:
Light
Orchids thrive in bright but filtered light. In the UK, the best spot is a west-facing room or the southern wall of a room, set back slightly from the window or behind a sheer curtain. Avoid placing orchids directly on a sunny summer windowsill, as the leaves can scorch.
In their native forests, Phalaenopsis orchids enjoy bright but filtered light, shielded from direct sun by the canopy above. In a UK home, they are often placed on windowsills where light is either too weak in winter or too harsh in summer. The solution is to place them in a bright west-facing room or on the southern wall of a room, but not right up against the glass. A sheer curtain or being set back slightly from the window will mimic that dappled light.
Helpful tip: Leaves with a rich green colour mean your orchid is happy with the light. Dark, floppy leaves = not enough light. Yellowed leaves = too much direct sun.
Temperature
Orchids are used to stable, warm conditions. They dislike sudden temperature swings, which are common in UK homes with radiators, draughts, or fireplaces. Try to keep them in a consistent room temperature, away from direct heat or cold drafts.
Orchids are used to stable, warm conditions and are rarely exposed to sudden temperature swings. In contrast, UK homes have radiators blasting dry heat in winter and cold draughts from old windows. Try to give your orchid a spot with consistent room temperature, away from radiators, fireplaces, or open doors. If your orchid is showing stress signs such as limp leaves, see our section on Is my orchid dying?.
Humidity
In their native forests, orchids grow in air that is naturally humid, often above 60 percent. In centrally heated UK homes, humidity can drop very low. Increase it by placing orchids on a tray of pebbles with water, grouping them with other plants, or keeping them in a bright bathroom or kitchen.
In the tropics, orchids thrive in air that is naturally humid, often above 60 percent. Indoors in the UK, central heating drops humidity to desert-like levels, leaving orchids parched. To bridge the gap, set your orchid on a tray filled with pebbles and water, group it with other plants, or occasionally mist around it (avoiding the flowers). Bathrooms and kitchens, where steam and moisture are naturally higher, can also make excellent homes for orchids if there is enough light. For more on how humidity affects buds and flowers, see Why are my orchid’s flowers dropping?.
Helpful tip: A group of plants creates a natural microclimate — orchids thrive when placed together with other houseplants.
Watering
The best guide to watering is the roots. When roots look grey or silvery, it is time to water. The dunking method works best: submerge the roots in water for a few minutes, then drain thoroughly. Always use rainwater or filtered water, as tap water can be harsh.
Growing on tree bark in the wild, orchid roots have evolved to get wet, then dry quickly, with rainwater dripping away freely. In the UK, orchids are often left sitting in tap water trapped at the bottom of decorative pots, leading to root rot. Instead, water sparingly with rainwater or filtered water, always letting excess drain away. A reliable approach is the dunking method: gently submerge the orchid’s roots (avoiding the leaves and flowers) in water for a few minutes, then lift it out and allow all excess water to drain fully before returning it to its pot. Clear pots make this even easier, because when roots turn grey or silvery, it is the plant’s way of telling you it is time to water. For signs of healthy versus damaged roots, see Potting & Root Health.
Helpful tip: Helpful tip: Grey roots mean your orchid is thirsty; after watering, healthy roots should be plump and lush green..
Potting
Orchids do not grow in soil but in airy bark that lets their roots breathe. Repot every one to two years with fresh bark in a clear pot so you can check root health. Healthy roots should be plump and green after watering.
In nature, orchid roots are exposed to air and light, clinging to bark with plenty of airflow. In UK homes, they are often smothered in old compost or packed tightly into pots that block air. Repot every one to two years with fresh orchid bark in a clear pot so you can check root health. Healthy roots should look plump and green after watering. If roots are brown or mushy, visit our Why are my orchid’s roots grey, brown, or mushy? section for more guidance.
Our Solution:
Designed for orchids. Made for your home.
Orla makes orchid care effortless. See when to water. Give roots room to breathe. Create the humidity orchids love.
All in a design that looks as good as it works.
- Clear, double-walled glass — check root health at a glance, while excess water is collected cleanly.
- Humidity pocket — the outer vase naturally recreates the orchids’ tropical air.
- Wide opening — aerial roots grow freely, just as in nature.
- Flexible placement — stand, wall-mount, or hang.
- Minimal, timeless design — Scandinavian–Japanese inspired, keeping the focus on the orchid.
Caring for orchids indoors is about recreating just enough of their natural environment to keep them healthy and blooming year after year. That’s why we designed the Orla Orchid Planter — created specifically to meet the needs of Phalaenopsis and other epiphytic orchids.
The transparency makes it easy to see when your orchid needs watering, while the wide opening gives aerial roots the freedom to grow naturally. Orla’s double-walled glass planter drains freely into an outer vase that collects excess water, creating a gentle pocket of humidity around the roots.
Orla can be placed on a table, shelf or sill, wall-mounted, or hung, and its Scandinavian–Japanese inspired form keeps the focus on the orchid’s beauty rather than the pot itself. Pair it with our Mini-Snips for precise trimming of spent spikes, and you’ll have everything you need to help orchids flourish indoors.
Helpful tip: In winter, orchids need less water but more light. Move closer to a bright window, but avoid cold draughts.
Final Thoughts
Caring for orchids indoors doesn’t need to feel complicated. Once you understand their natural needs — bright but filtered light, gentle humidity, careful watering, and a fresh orchid bark mix when repotting — they become some of the easiest and most rewarding houseplants to enjoy. Phalaenopsis orchids, the variety most often sold in the UK, will reward the right care with elegant blooms that last for months and return year after year.
At Frond, we designed Orla, our glass orchid planter, to make this process even simpler. Its clear form gives you a perfect view of the roots and water levels, helping you judge exactly when to water while raising the plant above its saucer to regulate humidity. It’s a design-led solution that takes the guesswork out of indoor orchid care.
So next time your orchid finishes flowering, don’t give up on it. With the right light, water, and environment, it can thrive and rebloom. Scroll back to the Orchid Care at a Glance guide whenever you need a refresher, and explore our collection of planters and tools designed to keep your orchids healthy — and your home effortlessly elegant.
Orchid Problem-Solving Guide
| Symptom | Likely Cause | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| 🌱Wrinkled or limp leaves | Roots not absorbing water (rot or dryness) | Check roots in a clear pot, trim damaged ones, repot in fresh bark, water sparingly. |
| 🌱Yellowing leaves | Natural ageing (lower leaves) OR too much direct sunlight | Remove only if leaves fall away easily. If upper leaves yellow, move to filtered light. |
| 🪴Black, mushy roots | Overwatering or standing water in decorative pot | Cut away damaged roots, repot in fresh bark, and use a pot with good drainage. |
| 💧Dry, silvery roots | Underwatering or very low humidity | Submerge roots for a few minutes, let excess drain. Increase humidity. |
| ☀️No new blooms | Lack of light, feeding, or rest period not met | Place in brighter position, feed with orchid fertiliser, trim spent spike above a node. |
| ❄️Buds drop before opening | Sudden temperature changes, drafts, or low humidity | Keep away from radiators/draughts. Increase humidity. |
| 💧Spots on leaves/flowers | Over-misting, fungal issues, or water sitting on leaves | Avoid misting flowers directly. Water roots in the morning so leaves dry quickly. |
| 🌱Sticky residue on leaves | Scale, aphids, or mealybugs | Wipe leaves with damp cloth, isolate plant, treat with insecticidal soap. |
| 💧White crust on bark/pot | Mineral build-up from hard tap water | Switch to rain/filtered water, flush pot monthly, repot if severe. |